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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.